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A winding trail at Glacier National Park in Montana

Montana

9 Amazing Hiking and Backpacking Trips in Montana

By: Eric Warren

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  • States:
    Montana

There’s something about waking up deep in the backcountry.

You've carried all of your gear into camp near a quiet lake or alpine cirque with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. You can find dozens of places like this in the Big Sky State. Montana has incredibly varied terrain, so this list includes different regions as well as different levels of difficulty and distance.

East Rosebud Trail (aka The Beaten Path)

Location: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

Arguably one of the best hiking experiences the Rocky Mountains has to offer in any state, the East Rosebud trail between Red Lodge and Cooke City has something for everyone, from wildlife that walks right up to you, to incredible fishing in lakes surrounded by craggy peaks, to trailside berries to munch on.

A strong hiker could make this 42-kilometer hike in one day, but if you want to get the most out of the trip, expect to spend three or more days out there. Though the trail gets nickname from the midsummer throngs of people, it’s far from crowded. Take any of dozens of side trails and you’ll find yourself in solitude.

Cottonwood Creek, Crazy Mountains

Location: Gallatin National Forest

Unlike many backpacking routes, this hike offers great mountain views right from the start. The trail follows Cottonwood Creek through prime moose habitat before climbing to excellent camping in the beautiful glacial tarn that embraces Cottonwood Lake.

Fishing is good at Cottonwood Lake, but another unnamed pond just below Cottonwood has water so clear you can watch the foot-long trout strike your line. Make sure you bring a stove to cook your catch as firewood is scarce.

Massive peaks of the Crazy Mountains

Massive peaks of the Crazy Mountains
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Boulder Pass

Location: Glacier National Park

If you’re looking for a variety of interesting geological features, Boulder Pass won’t disappoint. The beginning of the hike is marked by ample huckleberries along alpine lakes, lovely expanses of prairie and spectacular views of Harris Glacier. Waterfalls line the mountainsides as you make your way up to Boulder Pass.

Here, the geology gets more interesting. The terrain resembles a moonscape with lava pools and other reminders of the area’s volcanic past. The trail goes through Hole-in-the-Wall campground, said to be the most remote campsite in Glacier National Park, and along narrow cliffside trails that are hallmarks of the park.

Taking in the views during a hike at Glacier National Park

Taking in the views during a hike at Glacier National Park.
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Bechler River Trail

Location: Yellowstone National Park

Bechler River Trail has everything people come to Yellowstone for: wildlife, waterfalls, hot springs, picturesque river canyons and great fishing. It is also one of the least visited areas of the park. That said, don’t wait until the last second to get your backcountry permit. Camping is limited to established campsites and there aren’t many.

It’s also one of the least strenuous trails in the Rockies, being flat or following a slight decline for most of its substantial length. Its flat grade turns boggy in some areas, making it almost impassable until early August.

Hyalite Creek running through Hyalite Canyon

Hyalite Creek running through Hyalite Canyon
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Big Creek to Bear Creek Traverse

Location: Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

The first several kilometers of the Big Creek Trail meander along the bottom of a forested canyon and belie the rugged nature of the Bitterroot Range. Stepping out of the trees near Big Lake, however, will introduce you to the jagged peaks that characterize most of the hike, twice crossing the spine of the Bitterroot Divide between Montana and Idaho.

The stunning views and complete solitude make the considerable trek in well worth the effort.

Lolo Peak of the Bitterroot Mountains

Lolo Peak of the Bitterroot Mountains
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Moose Lake Trail

Location: Bob Marshall-Great Bear Wilderness

This trail, just south of Glacier National Park’s southern boundary, offers what’s best about the Bob Marshall Wilderness: options. Studying the map for a few minutes will reveal almost infinite possibilities, from lake-to-lake angling excursions to alpine summit expeditions.

The trail to Moose Lake begins in dense woods but soon opens up into spectacular views north into Glacier and southeast into the Great Bear Wilderness. Next, drop into Moose Lake, or change your mind and climb to Tranquil Basin, descend into Elk Lake, or hook up with the Twenty-Five Mile Creek Trail.

From there, choose between heading for the Middle Fork of the Flathead River or climbing Vinegar Mountain. You get the idea.

A mountain goat in the Bob Marshall Wilderness

A mountain goat in the Bob Marshall Wilderness
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Hyalite Creek to Hyalite Peak

Location: Gallatin National Forest

This trail is short but sweet and considered by many to be the premier hike in the Bozeman area. In the first eight kilomters to Hyalite Lake, the trail passes 11 waterfalls cascading from Hyalite Basin’s red rock bowl. At Apex Falls, just below Hyalite Lake, the trail branches toward Apex Crest and Hyalite Peak.

Hyalite Peak may not be the highest peak in the Gallatins, but it may be the most beautiful, looking down on one of the most unique drainages in Montana.

A trail runner in Hyalite Canyon

A trail runner in Hyalite Canyon
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Crystal Lake-West Peak

Location: Lewis and Clark National Forest

Starting at Crystal Lake, the trail follows a long loop to the top of the Snowy Mountains, connecting with several side trails that lead to peak-bagging opportunities – notably Promontory and Grandview Peaks. At least two cave entrances along the trail will entice spelunkers to light up and explore.

A camper resting by a stream strewn with rocks

A camper resting by a stream strewn with rocks
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Upper Potosi Hot Springs

Location: Tobacco Root Mountains

The Tobacco Root Mountains are often overlooked when it comes to backcountry adventures. Big mistake. The landscape is more arid than most in Montana, which makes for open, panoramic views. Hot springs on the trail bubble into primitive backcountry soaking pools, a reward for completing the hike.

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